Heeft iemand hier meer ervaring mee?
Pls help me ... ga namelijk zondag op vakantie en daarvoor heb ik de trekhaak nodig
Demontage Achterbumper
- StarlightNo1
- One wheel wonder
- Locatie: Eindhoven
Bericht
Demontage Achterbumper
Ik probeer mijn achterbumper eraf te halen om een trekhaak te monteren. Nu ben ik redelijk handig maar krijg hem met geen mogelijkheid af. Ik heb, naar mijn idee, alle schroeven eruit en de bumper zit al behoorlijk los maar hij zit nog op één of andere manier vastgeklikt ofzo??
Heeft iemand hier meer ervaring mee?
Pls help me ... ga namelijk zondag op vakantie en daarvoor heb ik de trekhaak nodig
Heeft iemand hier meer ervaring mee?
Pls help me ... ga namelijk zondag op vakantie en daarvoor heb ik de trekhaak nodig
.- Peter
- Volledig MINI minded!
- Locatie: Roelofarendsveen
Bericht
Had je deze DIY al gevonden: http://www.mini2.com/forum/faq.php?faq= ... ear_bumper
How to remove and replace the rear bumper on an 'S'
DISCLAIMER:
The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.
Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.
This process is fairly simple and does not require any special tools.
Estimated completion time is about 1 hour if you take your time.
The tools you will need are:
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
8mm Socket
10mm wrench
Jack & Jack Stands
17mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Safety Goggles
Step 1: Take off rear wheels
First, put on the safety goggles. And now for some over-simplified instructions to get the rear of the car in the air. Keep the car from rolling by securing the front wheels. While the car is on the ground, loosen the lug bolts with the 17mm socket. Jack up the car and secure with jack stands. Remove lug bolts and remove rear wheels.
Step 2: Removing the bumper
The MINI Cooper S stock bumper is assembled to the car with nine fasteners. Seven are very easy to access. In the picture below, the fasteners have been labeled for the types. The fastener count is A=1, B=4, C=4, D=4.
< Picture 1 – Fasteners
In the next three pictures, the fastener locations are labeled.
< Picture 2 – Rear Bumper Off
< Picture 3 – Fastener C Under Rear Fender Flair
< Picture 4 – Rear Bumper
Using the 8mm socket, remove fastener A.
Next, with the Phillips Screwdriver, remove fasteners B in four locations, two on each side. These are accessed from inside the rear fender well as shown in Picture 5. Repeat on the other side of the car. Fastener B is a two-piece design. Do not be surprised if one part remains in the fender well. You will need to remove this piece before re-installation.
< Picture 5 – Inside Rear Fender Well
Next, you need to remove the two screws that are hidden. The location of these two, one on each side, is under the rear fender flair that is attached to the body, as shown in Picture 3. To access these, pull outward on the flair with enough force to disengage the two rearward fasteners. The rear-most black fastener is easier than the second white fastener. With these two disengaged, you now have enough room to access Fastener C. Use your Phillips Screwdriver to remove. Repeat on the other side of the car.
The final two screws are the ones you see every time you open your boot. Locate the two fasteners C in Picture 2. Remove these two with your Phillips Screwdriver.
Your bumper is now basically free. You now need a box or something of appropriate height to support the bumper once you complete the next step because it will still be attached by the side marker light wiring and the backup light cable.
You will need to pry the rear fender wells from the rear fender flair that is attached to the bumper. This is very easily done. You bumper is now free in your hands and is only connected to the car with the two side marker lights and the backup light cables. This is where the box is handy. Support the bumper with the box (use a cloth between the bumper and box to help eliminate any scratches).
The side marker bulb holders just pull straight out with minimal force. The backup light will need a flat screwdriver or something of the like to free the catch on the connector at the light housing.
< Picture 6 – Backup (Reverse) Light
Congratulations, your bumper should be totally free from the car now.
Step 3: Remove the lights
The Backup Light is snapped in to the rear bumper. To remove the light from the bumper, you simply press in the two snaps on the light and then push the light out through the outside surface of the bumper. The snaps are fairly tight and might have to do one side at a time.
Next, you need to remove the side marker lights. Each side is assembled with two Fastener D’s. Use your 10mm wrench to remove the two fastener nuts. Repeat on the other side of the bumper.
< Picture 7 – Side Marker
Step 4: Reassembling the bumper
This is really just the reverse of the above directions with these helpful hints.
When tightening Fasteners D on the side marker lights, do NOT over-tighten. Snug is good enough. The plastic posts on the marker light will break. It is the old standard British car rule, when you over-tightened the nut to stripping point, the most expensive thing will be the part to break.
Do not forget to insert the maker bulb holders and the backup light in to the bumper. Attach the backup light wiring harness.
When hanging the bumper on the car, there are three major height locators for the bumper. These are shown in Pictures 8 & 9.
< Picture 8 – Side Alignment Feature (Passenger Side)
< Picture 9 – Center Alignment Feature
The bumper rests on the Center Alignment feature F and fits between the body and Side Alignment feature G.
Next, screw in the two screws, Fastener C, inside the boot. Only tighten about two-thirds of the way, this will allow some slight adjustment.
Maneuver the inner fender wells inside the rear bumper. Assemble Fastener B in four places by inserting the spreading part of Fastener B first into the inner fender well and bumper. Next, by either pushing or screwing, tighten the other part of the Fastener B.
Tighten Fastener C inside the rear body fender flair. Snap this fender flair back in place.
Finish tightening the two Fastener C’s inside the boot.
Tighten Fastener A.
You are now finished with the bumper.
Time to reassemble the wheels.
Don’t forget to torque your lug bolts to the specification in your manual once you have the car on the ground.
How to remove and replace the rear bumper on an 'S'
DISCLAIMER:
The information below is based on the account of a MINI2 member. Although MINI2 and the author of this thread believe this information is accurate, using it as a DIY guide is done at your own risk. MINI2 and the author are not responsible for any damage, personal injury, or warranty issues that may arise from the use of this information. Some information below may be specific to model specifications that are unique to certain countries, and may not apply to your model of MINI One, Cooper, or Cooper S.
Do not undertake any DIY project that you are not qualified to perform. If you have questions about this project, you should consult with experienced professionals and/or your MINI dealer before undertaking it. Always follow standard safety guidelines for car repair in performing DIY projects.
This process is fairly simple and does not require any special tools.
Estimated completion time is about 1 hour if you take your time.
The tools you will need are:
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
8mm Socket
10mm wrench
Jack & Jack Stands
17mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Safety Goggles
Step 1: Take off rear wheels
First, put on the safety goggles. And now for some over-simplified instructions to get the rear of the car in the air. Keep the car from rolling by securing the front wheels. While the car is on the ground, loosen the lug bolts with the 17mm socket. Jack up the car and secure with jack stands. Remove lug bolts and remove rear wheels.
Step 2: Removing the bumper
The MINI Cooper S stock bumper is assembled to the car with nine fasteners. Seven are very easy to access. In the picture below, the fasteners have been labeled for the types. The fastener count is A=1, B=4, C=4, D=4.
< Picture 1 – Fasteners
In the next three pictures, the fastener locations are labeled.
< Picture 2 – Rear Bumper Off
< Picture 3 – Fastener C Under Rear Fender Flair
< Picture 4 – Rear Bumper
Using the 8mm socket, remove fastener A.
Next, with the Phillips Screwdriver, remove fasteners B in four locations, two on each side. These are accessed from inside the rear fender well as shown in Picture 5. Repeat on the other side of the car. Fastener B is a two-piece design. Do not be surprised if one part remains in the fender well. You will need to remove this piece before re-installation.
< Picture 5 – Inside Rear Fender Well
Next, you need to remove the two screws that are hidden. The location of these two, one on each side, is under the rear fender flair that is attached to the body, as shown in Picture 3. To access these, pull outward on the flair with enough force to disengage the two rearward fasteners. The rear-most black fastener is easier than the second white fastener. With these two disengaged, you now have enough room to access Fastener C. Use your Phillips Screwdriver to remove. Repeat on the other side of the car.
The final two screws are the ones you see every time you open your boot. Locate the two fasteners C in Picture 2. Remove these two with your Phillips Screwdriver.
Your bumper is now basically free. You now need a box or something of appropriate height to support the bumper once you complete the next step because it will still be attached by the side marker light wiring and the backup light cable.
You will need to pry the rear fender wells from the rear fender flair that is attached to the bumper. This is very easily done. You bumper is now free in your hands and is only connected to the car with the two side marker lights and the backup light cables. This is where the box is handy. Support the bumper with the box (use a cloth between the bumper and box to help eliminate any scratches).
The side marker bulb holders just pull straight out with minimal force. The backup light will need a flat screwdriver or something of the like to free the catch on the connector at the light housing.
< Picture 6 – Backup (Reverse) Light
Congratulations, your bumper should be totally free from the car now.
Step 3: Remove the lights
The Backup Light is snapped in to the rear bumper. To remove the light from the bumper, you simply press in the two snaps on the light and then push the light out through the outside surface of the bumper. The snaps are fairly tight and might have to do one side at a time.
Next, you need to remove the side marker lights. Each side is assembled with two Fastener D’s. Use your 10mm wrench to remove the two fastener nuts. Repeat on the other side of the bumper.
< Picture 7 – Side Marker
Step 4: Reassembling the bumper
This is really just the reverse of the above directions with these helpful hints.
When tightening Fasteners D on the side marker lights, do NOT over-tighten. Snug is good enough. The plastic posts on the marker light will break. It is the old standard British car rule, when you over-tightened the nut to stripping point, the most expensive thing will be the part to break.
Do not forget to insert the maker bulb holders and the backup light in to the bumper. Attach the backup light wiring harness.
When hanging the bumper on the car, there are three major height locators for the bumper. These are shown in Pictures 8 & 9.
< Picture 8 – Side Alignment Feature (Passenger Side)
< Picture 9 – Center Alignment Feature
The bumper rests on the Center Alignment feature F and fits between the body and Side Alignment feature G.
Next, screw in the two screws, Fastener C, inside the boot. Only tighten about two-thirds of the way, this will allow some slight adjustment.
Maneuver the inner fender wells inside the rear bumper. Assemble Fastener B in four places by inserting the spreading part of Fastener B first into the inner fender well and bumper. Next, by either pushing or screwing, tighten the other part of the Fastener B.
Tighten Fastener C inside the rear body fender flair. Snap this fender flair back in place.
Finish tightening the two Fastener C’s inside the boot.
Tighten Fastener A.
You are now finished with the bumper.
Time to reassemble the wheels.
Don’t forget to torque your lug bolts to the specification in your manual once you have the car on the ground.
-
FastBunny
- Volledig MINI minded!
- Contacteer:
- Locatie: Breda
Bericht
Bij de zijskirts moet je er gewoon flink aan trekken en dan hoor je allerlei dingen afbreken en heb je ineens de zijskirt in je handen. Je moet hierna nieuwe klemmetjes bij de dealer halen.
Over dealers gesproken, waarom bel je niet de dealer en vraagt wat je nog meer moet doen/losmaken om de bumper eraf en weer erop te krijgen ?
Over dealers gesproken, waarom bel je niet de dealer en vraagt wat je nog meer moet doen/losmaken om de bumper eraf en weer erop te krijgen ?
- FunkyRAT
- Be Mini
- Locatie: ZTM
Bericht
zitten 3 schoeven in elke wielkast achter (goed zoeken!) en stuk of 4 onderaan de achterkant. Verder kofferbak openen zie je nog 2 schroeven.
Allemaal losschroeven en kijk uit dat je je achteruitrijlicht/mistlicht niet eruit rukt!
ohja er zitten geen klemmetjes oid aan je achterbumper, dus alleen de schoeven met hun pluggen eruit halen en dan kan je het zonder enige inspanning eraf tillen.
Allemaal losschroeven en kijk uit dat je je achteruitrijlicht/mistlicht niet eruit rukt!
ohja er zitten geen klemmetjes oid aan je achterbumper, dus alleen de schoeven met hun pluggen eruit halen en dan kan je het zonder enige inspanning eraf tillen.
Laatst gewijzigd door FunkyRAT op 14 jul 2006, 18:43, 1 keer totaal gewijzigd.
- StarlightNo1
- One wheel wonder
- Locatie: Eindhoven
Bericht
Het is gelukt !!
Bedankt voor jullie reacties, zonder deze informatie zou het echt niet gelukt zijn.
Toen ik de achterbumper er onderuit had was het simpelweg 8 bouten verwijderen en de trekhaak in de kokers schuiven. Het was alleen even vaag wat er moest gebeuren met de plastic kap die links onder de auto zit, deze zit namelijk in de weg voor de stekkerdoos. Even navraag bij de dealer en die vertelde dat je daar gewoon een stuk uit moest zagen.
Helaas heb ik geen tijd gehad om even wat fototjes te nemen om hier te posten. Maar i.i.g. nogmaals bedankt voor de informatie, zometeen lekker met de fietsen achterop naar de l’Alpe d'Huez !
Bedankt voor jullie reacties, zonder deze informatie zou het echt niet gelukt zijn.
Toen ik de achterbumper er onderuit had was het simpelweg 8 bouten verwijderen en de trekhaak in de kokers schuiven. Het was alleen even vaag wat er moest gebeuren met de plastic kap die links onder de auto zit, deze zit namelijk in de weg voor de stekkerdoos. Even navraag bij de dealer en die vertelde dat je daar gewoon een stuk uit moest zagen.
Helaas heb ik geen tijd gehad om even wat fototjes te nemen om hier te posten. Maar i.i.g. nogmaals bedankt voor de informatie, zometeen lekker met de fietsen achterop naar de l’Alpe d'Huez !
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